Does it still have a place in classifying wool? It also adds bulk and traps a large volume of air between the fibres, giving it good insulation properties. This characteristic makes wool a versatile all-season fabric. Since moisture does not remain on the surface, woollen fabrics tend to feel dry and comfortable even in damp weather. II, pp. remove this layer, if required, is by chemical treatment. This crimp may be introduced mechanically by passing the filament between gearlike rolls. At the disposal stage, natural fibres such as wool reduce the impact of the textile industry on pollution and landfill build-up. Your email address will not be published. Felting shrinkage is a form of shrinkage unique to wool and wool-rich fabrics and is caused by the scales on the surface of wool fibres that have a ratchet-like action allowing preferential movement of the fibre in the direction of the fibre root. Polyester is the most important fibre used in blending with wool. Characteristics of Wool Fibers. Scouring, washing or processing will not remove this layer. The keratin-associated protein KAP8-2, is present in wool from sheep. Wool garments do not feel damp or clammy. The amount of crimp corresponds to the fineness of the wool fibers. So, is it the crimp or is it the staple length that gives us the result that we see in hauteur? Australia, Eastern Europe, New Zealand, and China are major wool producers. Wool Characteristics: aa043097. This property enables wool to act as a buffer against sudden environmental changes, for example, excessive perspiration during exercise or changes in climatic conditions such as going outside from an air-conditioned room. The wool fibers have three-dimensional crimps, 25 waves per 10 cm in fine fiber, and 4 waves per 10 cm for coarse fibers. Crossbreed: A sheep or the wool from a sheep resulting from the breeding of two difference breeds. A ram, or male sheep, can 20 pounds of wool. 7. Twist insertion and Different Spinning Techniques, Comparison of Cleaning Treatments for Conservation and Restoration of Cotton, Wool…. Gary Robinson (right) and Phil Henry from CSIRO Geelong examine a top made from wool from the Fine Wool Project. AUSTRALIA Breeds found in Texas and California produce fibres 2.5 inches long. The wool fiber properties particularly the fineness and crimps of Menz, Dorper and 50% Dorper sheep of different parts and age categories are significantly different. Regain is the ratio of the mass of water to dry wool expressed as a percentage. Specialty Figure 1a. Distribution of Grade or Wool Fiber Diameter. The crimp of wool, or the frequency of waves in a wool staple, has been a vital part of the selection of Merino rams and ewes from the early days. On the face of it, it looks as though lower crimp wools are clearly better than highly crimped wools. When we looked at wools of similar length differing only in crimp frequency we found no association between crimp frequency and hauteur. Finer the wool the more will be the crimps in it. Some of the qualities a wool classer examines when classing wool are: Breed of the sheep: Shedding breeds will increase the risk of medullated or pigmented fibers. There are two major sources of shrinkage in wool-containing fabrics, which may be encountered during laundering: relaxation and felting shrinkage. Fiber The fiber length ranges from 3.8-38 cm. Questions exclusive to textile topics and professional answers from the textile community. The lowest quality comes from the lower legs. What is the relationship between crimp frequency of a fleece and its processing potential? The results of these unique trials will let us predict with confidence the. In wool, the individual fibers have a characteristic crimp or waviness that ranges from tight to loose, depending on the sheep breed. The Crimp/Diameter Relationship in an Australian Merino Flock. What do the processing results from the Fine Wool Project show us? All lots sold through the auction system by AWEX are assigned an appraised style, from inferior (7) to choice (1). This microscopic view shows us why wool is special. Relaxation shrinkage is caused by the release of temporarily set strains imposed on the fabric in dry finishing and can be minimised by suitable finishing routes. AWEX-ID covers subjective characteristics. This results in the entanglement of the fibres as they move under mechanical action in water (as occurs in Box 240 As Figure 1a clearly shows, when crimp frequency increases, hauteur decreases. By Deborah Robson & Carol Ekarius This is carried out by examining the characteristics of the wool in its raw state. This is because the surface of the fibre has a very thin, waxy, lipid coating chemically bonded to the surface that cannot be easily removed. Animal Science (1975) Wool characteristics of Iraqi Awassi sheep. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. This means that selection within a flock or bloodline for lower mean fibre diameter alone will not change crimp frequency. I will be presenting further data in The Wool Press as they become available. A sheering specialist can sheer 200 sheep in a day. Wool’s Special Characteristics. Another term also used by the textile industry, predominately for cotton, is ‘moisture content’. Crimp — How important is it in modern wool? Finer fibres with more crimp such as Merino create fabrics that drape better than coarser fibres. Yarn, Costumes: During Indus Valley Civilization, Textile Fabric Types – different types of fabrics and…, Types of Woven Fabrics – universally used fabric names, Linen Fiber and Linen Fabrics from the Flax Plants, An exclusive information portal on textiles. On the animal, this enables the foreign matter to work its way out of the fleece. Fleece is a ball of wool taken from a single animal in a shearing. Moisture content is the ratio of the mass of water to the mass of water plus wool expressed as a percentage. In the home furnishing area, the major use of wool is in carpets and rugs where wool is used more, cover to the carpets and warm in the rugs. 12—A COMPARATIVE STUDY OF THE WOOL CHARACTERISTICS OF TWO MERINO BREEDS UNDER SEMI-ARID CONDITIONS. Next, the wool is carded – that means brushing the wool to straighten the fibres. Crimps: Wool fibre is more or less wavy and has twisted. The breathable “air pocket” characteristics of wool mean that sweat doesn’t weigh down your insulation layers, which causes you to feel consistently warmer the more you sweat. But be careful: When wool is wet the fibers are weaker. Sheep with fleeces that were broader crimping than they thought desirable for any flock were culled and so were sheep that were too highly crimped. But not all wool is equal – even when it comes from the same animal. The wool fibers have crimps or curls, which create pockets and give the wool a spongy feel and create insulation for the wearer. 0.3), so selection for crimp will be reasonably effective if we decide that we want to change the crimp frequency of the flock. Now let us see what proportion of those differences in a typical fine wool flock is due to the effects of genes that will influence the performance of the next generation. Crimp promotes the protection of the fleece from ingress of mechanical impurities and atmospheric precipitation. Do we scrap it entirely or is it important in the processing of wools of any particular “type”? Objective measurements include diameter (micron), length, strength, position of break, vegetable matter and colour. The first thing to note is that these differences are surprisingly small. In the wool industry, a good well-crimped fleece is said to One of the many raw wool attributes measured on the individual fleeces that formed the processing batches was crimp frequency. Wool is possibly the oldest fiber known to humans. A ewe, or female sheep, can produce up to 15 pounds of wool. And because of the inner moisture, wool is naturally flame resistant. Wool, along with cotton and to a lesser extent nylon, is a fibre that absorbs moisture from the surrounding air to reach an equilibrium, which depends on the relative humidity of the environment. An associated question is whether a breeder can maintain a particular crimp frequency and yet make acceptable changes to other characteristics of economic (and processing) importance. More at Textile School Dr Ian Purvis, manager of Program 1 has been studying crimp as part of the Fine Wool Project and reflects on its changing importance in modern wool science. Textiles Crimp is the natural wave formation found in the Huacaya fleece. Merino fiber is know for its high frequency of crimp. The fleece is a bright white with good crimp and soft handle and is very even. Crimp is a multi dimensional structure and how the crimp is expressed is determined by genetics (cortical cells- bilateral structure), amplitude, crimp frequency and micron. Cheviot . 25-30microns and staple length, 80-120mm. North Melbourne Victoria, 3051 In addition, many sheep classers were firmly convinced that fleeces should be true to a bloodline or stud “type” and, to be true to type, fleeces had to have a particular crimp frequency. Alpaca is often criticized for having inadequate memory and, as a result, is often blended with 6% to 20% wool to increase memory. Proceedings of the ninth wool textile research conference, vol. Polypropylene and polyethylene do not absorb the dyes used to colour wool so any wool pack contamination from these fibres in the final product will appear obvious. II. In warm, moist conditions such as in soil, wool biodegrades rapidly through the action of fungi and bacteria to essential elements (i.e. Wool is a protein fibre that comes from a variety of animals. The move to nylon woolpacks does not Felting: The matting together of wool fibers. Fleece: The wool from a single sheep in the shorn grease state. The site is intended for all spectrum of users to learn and share the textile knowledge from a single platform. What would happen to diameter, for example? Terms & Conditions, CRC for Premium Quality Wool: 1993 – 2000 An Evaluation, A chain is only as strong as its weakest link. The ortho-cortex and para-cortex cells form the core of the wool fibre. The amount of water absorbed by wool is usually referred to as ‘regain’. Finishing The impact of this is that selection within a fine wool flock for increased fleece weight will produce animals in subsequent generations with lower crimp frequency. Two previously identified KRTAP8-2 alleles (A and B) were detected, but the frequency of B in the Tan sheep was much higher than reported previously for New Zealand (NZ) sheep. Apparel In the thin and semi-fine wool distinguish three basic forms of twists: normal, flat and high. The differences in the chemical structure of the various fibres mean that different classes of dyestuffs are required to cover the range of fibre types. Wool is ideal for cool weather garments such as sweaters. While wool is grown to keep an animal insulated, it is not the same as hair or fur. It is taken into account when the sheep are bonitized and the wool is classed. Textile School incorporates knowledge associated to textiles right from fibers to its end usage including textile processes, trade-offs, know-how and textile standards. We were particularly interested in the hauteur, or mean fibre length in the top because it is has a big influence on the prices paid for wool tops. Are measured in microns (μm), which are one one-millionths of a meter. The most important use of wool is for apparel coats, jackets, suits, dresses, skirts, slacks made from woven fabrics of varying weights and knitted fabrics’. Learn how your comment data is processed. Having said that, the term “tropical” refers to a fabric’s weave as much as its weight. Australian Wool Education Trust Fiber widths. Figure 1b The relationship between crimp frequency and staple length showing that the lower crimped wools are associated with longer staples. But, if we change the crimp frequency of the flock, what would we be doing to other characteristics at the same time? 1966 57(3). All Rights Reserved. Sheering is done by hand, but the manufacturing of wool fabric is done by machine. … Wool products labelling Act permits the word “wool” to be used for fibres from sheep, Angora or Cashmere goats, camel, alpaca, llama, and vicuna. This is especially surprising when viewed against Figure 1b the range of crimp frequency found in the hoggets from any of the flocks which is very much greater. The crimp of wool, or the frequency of waves in a wool staple, has been a vital part of the selection of Merino rams and ewes from the early days. Fibre crimp affects wool’s properties The crimp in wool fibres makes it soft and springy to touch. This is measured by the heritability, and crimp frequency is moderately heritable (approx. However, we have done the calculations and despite concerns about changing crimp frequency in fine wool flocks, we conclude that selection that is focused on the major traits of economic importance within a flock fleece weight and diameterwill result in only very small changes over a period of, say, ten years. Wool fiber is the natural hair grown on sheep and is composed of protein substance called as keratin. Woolcheque uses a combination of objective and subjective wool measurements and characteristics to price wool. The highest quality wool comes from the sides, shoulders, and back. Fabric Some wools are better suited for rugs and others for fine lace. wool characteristics between mobs within a flock which will require those mobs to be kept separate, however where mobs are of similar breeding and husbandry conditions the Woolclasser may choose to combine those mobs to create larger lots. The wool produced is approx. p.T107. The length varies from place to place on the animal, but it mostly varies amongst sheep breeds. The only way to Other articles where Crimp is discussed: man-made fibre: Crimping: In order for staple fibres to be spun into yarn, they must have a waviness, or crimp, similar to that of wool. The crimp is characteristic of all types of wool fibers, except for the covering hair. Although the wool fibre can readily absorb water vapour from the air, a garment made from wool will be water repellent to some extent. The air trapped between the fibers provides natural insulation and wears well in high traffic areas. The sheared wool is called raw wool and since sheep don’t take showers, it must first be cleaned. There are many different breeds of sheep, each with their own characteristics. The surface is a series of overlapping scales of protein, pointing toward the tip. It was one of the first fibres to be spun into yarn and woven into a fabric. How much does crimp frequency vary between sheep (take the frequency at the midside as the average of the sheep)? If we look at the relationship between crimp frequency and staple length in Figure 1b we get an identical relationship. First in the west — New students graduate in Wool Science, Phil Hynd is new head of Animal Science in Adelaide. The effect of variation in KRTAP8-2 on wool traits was investigated in Chinese Tan sheep. Of the major apparel fibres, wool is the most reusable and recyclable fibre on the planet. The roving is spun into yarn that is then woven into cloth. Before we had equipment that could measure mean fibre diameter accurately, crimp frequency (or quality number) was the most common means of estimating mean fibre diameter. In the past, the task of spinning usually was the job of unmarried females – they became spinsters. The Field Guide to Fleece: Wool Characteristics Learn about different wool characteristics — from fiber length and diameter to crimp. Wool is resistant to acid, whereas cotton and cellulose are severely damaged if exposed to acid. The absorbed moisture also holds down static electricity. Australian Merino wool is 3-5 inches long. 1969 39(9). Nitrogen and Sulphur) for the growth of organisms as part of natural carbon and nutrient cycles. Gallagher J. R. Textile Research Journal. Learn about different wool characteristics — from fiber length and diameter to crimp | Cross River Homes We love wool. Hence, these wool fibers shall be classified and graded based on their breeds to use for different applications, and also it could help to explore more on wool fiber production. They are fiber diameter, crimp, yield, color, and fiber staple length/strength. This result in fabrics that are more appropriate in warmer conditions. Many readers have asked for a smaller book that they could carry with them … Journal of the Textile Institute Transactions. Is there significant genetic control of crimp frequency? Variant A was found to be associated with both a … It was one of the first fibers to be spun into yarn and woven into the fabric. Now that we have relatively cheap tests for diameter, breeders and sheep classers are facing the problem of what to do about the frequency of crimp. Perhaps the biggest issue of all, these days, and certainly an important one, is the relationship between crimp frequency and processing performance. It is the same whether we look within a flock, or a bloodline, or even a strain of Merino. This molecular crimp, along with the 3-dimensional fiber, allows wool fibers to be stretched up to 50% when wet and 30% when dry, and still bounce back to their original shape when stress is released. Wool always absorbs moisture from the atmosphere of greater humidity and releases it to the drier environment as it creates a balance in moisture conditions. It is still the prime choice for high-quality business suits, warm sweaters, and premium carpets. What is the genetic relationship between crimp frequency and other traits that breeders might consider important in their flocks or in the flocks of clients? Blends of different synthetic fibres with wool for suiting materials are increasingly important. So they attempted to create uniformity in crimp frequency. Wool today is prized for its beauty and durability. Evaluation of New Zealand low and high crimp Merino wools. The association between fleece weight and crimp frequency is slightly more complex. 12 886 519 613, © 2017 Australian Wool Education Trust. This is the key to wool’s strength. In general, these results show that up to the topmaking stage lower crimped wools produce slightly longer fibres and have lower processing losses than wools of higher crimp frequency. Sharafeldin M. A. A fine wool like Merino may have up to 40 crimps per centimetre (100 crimps per inch), while coarser wool like karakul may have less than one (one or two crimps per inch). The fiber diameter measures the width of the fiber. About wool and its properties. The characteristics which a wool classer would examine are: Breed of the sheep: Shedding breeds will increase the risk of medulated and/or pigmented fibres. Wool grows permanently crimped and this natural crimp gives the fiber bulk and allows it to absorb noise. The American woollen industry began in the Massachusetts settlements in 1630, where each household was required by law to produce wool cloth. The majority of wool (72.8%) is used in apparel, home furnishing account for 15-45%, industrial uses 6 to 7% and exports 5%, wool accounts for 3.3% of all fibres for apparel. If we take the nine fine/superfine bloodlines that form the Fine Wool Project flocks, and plot the average value for the hogget animals over five years, we see the differences shown in Figure 1a. This information allows us to relate the average crimp frequency of a processing batch to the subsequent performance of that batch through to top stage. Cool Wool uses what’s known as an “open weave,” which, as the astute gentleman may have guessed, means it allows body heat to escape, while letting outside air in. Wool style is a ranking based on a subjective appraisal of the overall look and feel of a wool lot and considers evenness of crimp along the length of a wool staple, the extent of tip damage, dust content and penetration, colour and lustre. Wool classing is the production of uniform, predictable, low-risk lines of wool, carried out by examining the characteristics of the wool in its raw state and classing (grading) it accordingly. Once done by hand, these days a carding machine passes the wool through a series of rollers covered with wire bristles. In the Sahara Desert, Bedouins wear thin wool clothing to help them keep cool in the scorching heat. The relationship between crimp frequency and length of fibre in the processed top (hauteur) showing that the lower crimped wools produce tops with longer hauteur. The arrangement of the cells causes the ‘crimp’ (wave) in the wool fibre and traps air (providing insulation), which produces wool fabrics that keep us warm during winter. That is, longer staples have a lower crimp frequency. processing consequences of different selection strategies. Relaxation shrinkage is an irreversible change in fabric dimensions (expansion or shrinkage) that occurs only once when a fabric is first immersed in water (without agitation) and then allowed to dry. At ambient humidity, wool will contain 10 to 15% by weight of water and up to 35% water at high relative humidity, which is more than most other fibres. In other words, is crimp related to factors that determine processing yields and the economics of processed products. Wool fibers are crimped and elastic, and they have scale, which in combination give wool it’s unique characteristics. c/- P.O. This difference is utilised in carbonising wool to remove excessive cellulosic impurities, such as burr and vegetable matter. Wool is graded for fineness and length. Will an animal’s performance be passed on strongly to the progeny? In this replicated experiment, we investigated the impact of cashmere in blends with superfine wools on the mechanical properties of single jersey knitted fabrics. Wool absorbs perspiration; thus it keeps a layer of dry air next to the skin which, in turn, helps to hold in body heat. Wool is composed of carbon, hydrogen, nitrogen and this is the only animal fiber, which contains sulfur in addition. More than 200 batches representing the pooled fleeces of the progeny of individual sires have been processed through to tops at the Geelong research mill of CSIRO’s Division of Wool Technology. 150 – 158. machine washing). What characteristics determine what is wool 's value? Dr Ian Purvis, manager of Program 1 has been studying crimp as part of the Fine Wool Project and reflects on its changing importance in modern wool science. Importance of evaluation of PPE for medical personnel to combat…, Comparison of Cleaning Treatments for Conservation and Restoration…, How to Choose a Sewing Machine: Top Tips for a Newbie Learner, Fusing Quality Control in Garment Manufacturing, Types of textile fibers – list of textile fibers by its…, Knitted fabrics and types – list of knitted fabrics, This website uses cookies to improve your experience. Then, they need a haircut. Contrary to popular belief, not all wool is rough and itchy. However, when we look at the genetic control, things are different. In wool the finer (smaller) the diameter the higher the quality of wool. That’s why we wrote The Fleece & Fiber Sourcebook. Merino wool has 30 crimps per inch while coarse wool has one or two. This water is incorporated in the internal structure of the fibre and, therefore, is hardly noticed by the wearer. A.B.N. This absorbency also gives wool its natural resistance to wrinkles. Through its natural crimp, it creates miniscule air pockets, which help regulate temperature. The carded fibres are gently scraped into strands called roving. This conclusion applies only to fine wool flocks. We'll assume you're ok with this, but you can opt-out if you wish. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Wool is possibly the oldest fibre known to humans. Wool Also Keeps You Cool. It … Wool is treated with a solution of sulfuric acid and is then baked to destroy the impurities with only minimal damage to the wool. The fiber length of 5-12 cm is used in the garment industry because this length allows the yarn to be manufactured with greater precision. These are preliminary results in a very comprehensive program but they are certainly important to producers of fine wool who are considering using crimp frequency as part of their selection strategy. Wool is known for its ”memory,” which is the ability of fiber processed into textiles to bounce back to its original shape. This waviness is termed as ‘crimp’. Wool’s surface repels water. p.883. Wool classing is done by a wool classer. Jute Fiber – the natural cellulose bast fibers from plants or…. Wool scale. Textile School - a knowledge-base repository of textile articles. Synthetic fiber manufacturers have attempted to simulate these natural characteristics through mechanical processing with satisfactory results. We love sheep. This UK breed is classified as mountain and hill. Wool is a protein fibre that has scales and crimp that make it easier to spin into yarn because the fibres interlock with each other rather than slide loosely against each other (as in the case of cotton which is made of cellulose). AcceptRead More, Wool fiber – Basics, Characteristics, & Properties, Characteristics of Wool Fibers and Products, Summary of Characteristics of Wool Fibers. It therefore comes as a bit of a shock to find objective evidence that shows the association between crimp frequency and mean fibre diameter is essentially zero. Wool has several qualities that distinguish it from hair/fur: it is crimped and elastic. Animals whose crimp varied across their body were also usually dispatched to the butcher. In a strand of yarn, it enables the fibres to lock with one another. This article is based on a report that he presented in the CSIRO Fine Wool Newsletter. Flame resistant (wool usually extinguishes itself when the source of flame is removed), Weaker than cotton or linen, especially when wet, Fibres range from one to fourteen inches long, Most valued for its textured appearance and warmth, Springs back into shape after being crushed, An excellent insulator as woollens (80% air), Absorbs moisture which is held inside the fibre (the wool will still feel dry even on a humid day), Quality of wool varies with the breed of sheep, Does not attract dirt or static electricity. We already know that crimp frequency was used in the past as a visual indicator for mean fibre diameter. If there is no variation we can’t change the flock average anyway. Crimp: The natural waviness of the wool fiber; it varies with the diameter of the fiber. Wool from other breeds and other animals may be as long as 15 inches. Find out about different sheep breeds and their characteristics in our latest blog by World of Wool. The Fine Wool Project of the Wool CRC’s Program 1 is throwing light on these questions by giving us information about a number of issues related to crimp frequency: First, let’s look at variability. The process is called sheering. Progeny of sires (and dams) with the highest clean fleece weights tend to have the lowest crimp frequency. Aside from premium next-to-skin apparel, wool can be used in industrial applications such as thermal and acoustic insulation or in pads to soak up oil spills. Wool has many useful properties besides insulation. The crimp in the fibre allows wool fabrics to hold air and thereby retain heat. The inner core does absorb moisture – so much so that wool can absorb almost double its own weight in water and still feel reasonably dry. Wool mostly comes from sheep but also from alpacas, camels, and goats. The eco-credentials of wool are enhanced by its long service life and suitability to be recycled to new textiles for clothing, resilient upholstery or products that call on its natural resistance to fire and temperature extremes. necessarily prevent contamination; however, as the chemical structure of nylon is similar to wool, it absorbs wool dyes and this makes any contamination less obvious. If we ranked a group of animals within a fine wool flock from the highest fleece weight to the lowest, we would not find any corresponding change (up or down) in crimp frequency. Studies have been conducted over several decades on crimp frequency and processing efficiency by the South African Wool Research Institute and by CSIRO Division of Wool Technology in Australia. Finer wools such as merino are very crimpy, with tight waves, while coarser breeds such as Lincoln have thicker individual fibers and a looser crimp. If a ram from a medium wool bloodline is used – where, of course, the average crimp frequency is very different- there will be greater changes over this period. Wool characteristics and processing performance of knitwear and woven fabrics.